PORTRAIT OF A WOMAN
Vanity Fair @vanityfair
Editor Daisy Shaw-Ellis @daisyshawellis
JEWELLERS CARVE A PROFITABLE NICHE FROM THE INTAGLIO RENAISSANCE
Both modern and traditional interpretations of the ancient technique are in high demand
"These pieces require exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail,” says Italian jeweller Francesca Villa, who has released a collection of jewellery set with Essex crystal intaglios, hand-carved and painted in Germany by a different artisan.
“They begin by using fine steel tools to carve deep into the back of a rock crystal cabochon,” explains Villa. “Every detail is meticulously etched into the stone and, because the carving is done in reverse, the artisans have to work with an extraordinary level of foresight and skill to achieve the desired outcome.
“Once the carving is complete, they move on to the painting process. This stage involves the use of incredibly fine brushes, sometimes with bristles no thicker than a single hair, to add colour and depth to the design.”
Villa is a fan of incorporating vintage elements in her work, such as old American casino chips. But working with new, rather than vintage, intaglios allows her to offer customisation. Pet portraits are a particular favourite with clients — and a growing trend in jewellery.
Financial Times @financialtimes
Editor Rachael Taylor @rachaeltaylorgram
HEAVENLY CREATURES
BRIGHT, beautiful, adorable and ELABORATE, indulge in a dazzling MENAGERIE of animal-inspired WONDERS
Featuring one of our Bespoke Being Furry Rings
British Vogue @britishvogue
Editor: Laura Hawkins @lauranathawkins
MIND YOUR MANORS
Whether it's chintz or fine china, ELLE editor-in-chief Nina Garcia is delighting in eccentric countryside styling this month.
ELLE @elleusa
Editor: Nina Garcia @ninagarcia, Alexis Wolfe @awolfestyle
The rectangular pieces may be smaller than those often worn by hip-hop stars, but they still allow wearers to express themselves without saying a word.
...Upcycled vintage items often feature in Ms. Villa’s work, and her recent Abracadabra range features 1960s-era lenticular images, created by using two plastic and resin images that appear to change, depending on the angle of view. In Ms. Villa’s work, lenticular plates of nostalgic cartoon characters — Popeye and Olive Oyl, for example — are set in gold frames accentuated with colored stones (about $2,790).
“I think they’re very cute on their own,” she said, “but sometimes I add some words to the bottom, like ‘Help!’ in gold to one of Pinocchio being chased by a whale.”
New York Times @nytstyle
Editor Annabel Davidson @annabel_davidson_yeah
FOR THE FUN OF IT
Precious and joyful are the hallmarks of some unorthodox
new jewellery collections.
...Fashion editors use the term “dopamine dressing” to describe the mood-enhancing power of bright colours and prints. Even more than fashion, jewellery is capable of changing emotions. It’s difficult to feel glum when wearing a... a neon-hued pinkie ring resembling a Mexican wrestling mask by Francesca Villa.
The Times Luxx @thetimesluxury
Editor: Sarah Royce-Greensill @srgjewel
FRANCESCA VILLA'S PET PORTRAIT JEWELLERY, THE PAWFECT GIFT
Pet portrait jewellery courtesy of Francesca Villa’s bespoke Being Furry service puts a kitsch spin on gifting a loyal friend’s likeness
Thought you’d exhausted gifting potential for animal lovers? This pet portrait jewellery created through Francesca Villa’s bespoke Being Furry service, which brilliantly combines sentimentality and kitsch, will make you think again.
‘The portrait of their pet is hand carved and painted by master carvers, who carve onto the back of the crystal and then paint with a very fine brush, whilst the body of the ring is cast in my atelier. We then set the stones and the crystal in the centre of the ring.’
The jewellery, while nodding to Victorian traditions, is a fun and modern way to avoid the doghouse this festive season. ‘It takes many hours of concentrated craft to create these little personal masterpieces,’ Villa adds. ‘Many people have a deep love for their pets and we are creating a little daily joy to celebrate that connection; a piece they can wear and treasure every day.’
Wallpaper @wallpapermag
Editor Hannah Silver @_hannahsilver_
TEN STAND OUT JEWELERS FROM THE LAS VEGAS COUTURE SHOW
Vegas baby! It’s not all slot machines, theme restaurants and mega-concerts. Once a year on the last week of May it is the world capital of jewellery. Vegas plays host to the Couture Show where hundreds of jewellers show their newest collections. It is the fashion week of jewellery. This is the place trends for the year are decided and design stars emerge. As a jewellery editor, I quickly note my favourite trends and stand-out designs. Here are my top ten:
Francesca Villa took the Victorian lover’s eye motif, and playfully twisted it. She replaced the eye paintings with cartoon lenticulars that open/close or shift directions depending on the angle you are viewing them. Then she surrounded them with traditional pearls and diamonds. It is pretty, funny and adorable.
10 magazine @10magazine
Editor: Will Kahn @willsnotebook
THE COUTURE SHOW 2024 DESIGN AWARD WINNERS
It was another packed house with a wild, ruckus and wholly supportive crowd of jewelry professionals at The Couture Show’s 2024 Design Awards, held June 1 at the Wynn Las Vegas Encore Theater.
The Couture Show has become the largest and most prestigious trade fair for jewelry designers and brands in North America. The Couture Show Design Awards is easily the most prestigious awards program in North America for these same designers and artists who come from all over the world to show their creations to an invitation only group of retailers.
BEST IN DEBUTING
Francesca Villa
FORBES @forbes
Editor: Anthony DeMarco @theanthonydemarco
MEET THE QUIRKY AND KOOKY JEWELS TAKING OVER YOUR INSTAGRAM FEED
Italian designer Francesca Villa’s latest collection, Lover’s Eyes, includes a necklace bearing emoji-esque illustrations.
Harpers Bazaar Arabia @harpersbazaararabia
Editor Annabel Davidson @twinklefingersboyd
WISHFUL THINKING! INSIDE FRANCESCA VILLA'S LATEST COLLECTION
Titled Make a Wish, it’s the newest “chapter” of Villa’s Close Encounters collection, in which she’s dreamed up a world of serendipitous meetings between creatures from different environments—and continents—to create new experiences together.
A leopard wishes to make friends and accompanies a seahorse to a party on the beach. A zebra is celebrating its birthday while a little crab and cockatoo appear to help mark the occasion.
The crystals for Make a Wish, as in previous Villa collections, were made in collaboration with two female master jewelers in Germany who specialize in the Old World technique of carving and hand-painting rock crystal.
And if I get to make a wish? It’s for Villa to make more of these little wonders immediately!
JCK Magazine @jckmagazine
Editor: Amy Elliott @aelliott718
ON OUR RADAR: THE COLLECTIONS INSPIRING US RIGHT NOW
Here at katerinaperez.com, we believe that 2023 was a very successful and creative year for the fine jewellery industry! Let’s look at five of the ‘crème de la crème’ of these collections.
Make A Wish by Francesca Villa
You’ve never met a jewellery designer quite like the Italian artist Francesca Villa. Her imagination knows no bounds, and with the endless and unrepressed creativity of a child, she carefully crafts jewellery pieces that act out the fictional stories of her mind's eye, ones filled with imaginary worlds, places and animals you could only wish to dream of. This is the premise of her ongoing Close Encounters collection, for which she has recently released her latest series of fine jewellery creations aptly entitled Make A Wish. The protagonist of the storyline, a leopard, brought to life through micro-enamel paintings, befriends a ladybug whilst out shopping, after which, later that evening, he takes his friend, the blue seahorse, to a beach party. In tandem, a zebra celebrates her birthday with her friends, a little crab and a cockatoo.
Katerina Perez @katerina_perez
Editor Livia Primo Lack @liviaprimolack
THE ANTIQUE GEMS MORE VALUABLE THAN A BOTTICELLI
A new British Museum exhibition is devoted to engraved classical jewels. It’s easy to see why the Renaissance princeling Lorenzo de’ Medici was such a big fan
Francesca Villa
Villa has created a whole series of cameo rings set in gold with brightly coloured enamel and gemstones, thus breathing new life into these often overlooked miniatures.
The Times @thetimes
Editor Hannah Silver @_hannahsilver_
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